Oregon Countryside & Back To California

With only 3 days remaining before a prior engagement back in Marin we needed to make the most of our time left in Oregon. So with fond memories of the Rogue River in our minds we returned to the coast and headed north toward Battle Rock and Bandon.

At first glance, the modest Battle Rock stands as one of many small rocky islands that pepper the Oregon coastline. However, there is a historical significance to this place that provides insight into the recent history of the (US) pacific coastline.

Story Time...

In 1850, US Congress passed the Oregon Donations Land Act, which basically allowed white settlers to claim lands already populated by the Dene Tsut Dah (Native Americans), without any formal negotiation or treaty. Understandably, this Act constructed a recipe for conflict, and in 1851 that conflict arrived when nine men under the command of Captain William Tichenor landed at what is now Battle Rock. For 2 weeks the bravery and gun powder possessed by these nine white settlers repelled an understably irate collection of poorly armed Indian warriors. Eventually, after escaping under the cover of night, Captain William Tichenor and his men returned to this site with a fully equipped army to sweep away any resistance, establish a permanent white settlement and change the course of local history for ever.

Battle Rock

Oregon Coastline

After Battle Rock our journey then took us back towards Highway 5, inland through the open green fields that dominate this beautifully under developed state. We then continued south, eager to put some miles on the clock and reduce the distance between us and Novato. Just shy of the border we rested up in a bland cheap motel in Medford, a sprawl of a former railroad town where we could find little to do other then eat a very large pizza in one of the string of out of town restaurants that appear to define the gastronomic possibilities on offer in this part of the world. The next day we continuing south past the immense Mount Shasta on the way to a comfortable campsite on the banks of Lake Solano. Here, in beautiful and natural surroundings we endeavoured to cook and eat, despite the persistent efforts of a half dozen crazed peacocks who were eager to steal our food.

Mount Shasta

Lake Solano

Crazed Peacock

© All Images By Paul

Oregon Border and The Rogue River

With the state border now firmly in our sights we continued north towards Oregon. I had heard a lot about this state from some adventurous friends of ours who had explored most of America as a part of their own mammoth tour about 12 months ago (Hi Sam & Fi). With their endorsement ringing in my ears, I was looking forward to what lay ahead past the two deeply forgettable towns of Crescent City and Eureka.

As we progressed, we were regularly side-tracked by an increasing number of road side tourist attractions each aimed at distracting the steady stream of road trippers who appear to descend upon the Pacific Coast. Each of these boasted the worlds longest, highest and heaviest something or other, and most immediately faded from memory. Two did stand out however; the first being a moderately historic school called 'Stone Lagoon' which was surrounded by an impressive herd of Elks and the second being a massive moving and talking statue of the mythological lumberjack Paul Bunyan.

Stone Lagoon School House (& Elk)

Paul Bunyan Statue

Eventually, the sun light descended into a lush golden glow as we crossed the Oregon border and continued north up to the Rogue River and promises of a camp site nestled along one of its' many meanders. Finally, after what seemed like an age we reached 'Kimbal Bend' where our wait for a decent place to camp was immediately justified. As we looked out, the banks of the river eased into a gently flowing current. Otters could be seen swimming within the cold open waters, by which we sat and enjoyed giant gin-and-tonics as the day faded into night. We then headed back to our camp where we cooked and ate under the dim glow of candle light and our small propane burner.

Rebecca with Gin & Tonic

Banks of the Rogue River at Sun Set

The following morning, after a long and relaxing night within the bowel of the beast we headed to the Rogue and swam in the calm and very fresh waters of the river. We then returned to our vehicle, which was almost entirely enclosed in a large horseshoe of monster RV's each casting a shadow on our modest chariot. It was time to hit the road once more.

The Rogue River prior to an early morning swim.

© All Images By Paul