Pennsylvania

Upon arrival in the state where modern America was born, we immediately set out for Gettysburg, the site where in its infancy, it nearly committed suicide. Naively, we set out to find some reasonably priced lodging close by, but this being one of the most famous tourist sites in the US, this soon proved impossible. So, sick of evil hoteliers inflating their room rates, we headed out of town to find something cheaper. 15 miles out of town we found the Nesbit Motel. Here the rooms were a third of the price, so feeling slightly smug, we checked in and unlocked our room….

On the face of it, the room seemed fine enough. The bed was clean, the walls weren’t stained, and the faint murmur of dodgy activity in the adjoining rooms wasn’t too overbearing. I was relieved, and so quickly prepared myself for bed. Then, just as I was beginning to get comfortable lying on my back in front of an old television set, Rebecca pulled back the curtains.

Immediately, she stumbled back and with a face flushed of blood, she looked over.

‘What is it?’ I enquired. ‘Look’ she responded.

Hesitantly, I did.

Never before have I seen so many beetles in an inside space. Dozens of them clung to the fabric of the curtain, creeping over each other and generally looking sinister and frightening. Shit. We had both driven too far and it was far too late to find somewhere else to sleep, so there was only one thing for it. I would have to wrap each of these horrendous little beasts in tissue paper and dispose of them myself.

Now I don’t want to sound like a brave hero here, because I generally hate being anywhere near an animal smaller then a mouse, especially if it has more legs then I have limbs. But we had no choice, so with the same facial expression that a child pulls when they are forced to eat liver, I approached the beetles.

The following morning I was exhausted, unable as I was to sleep the nigh before, fearful of some kind of revenge attack. So after a quick breakfast at a petrol station, Rebecca guided the Beast back toward Gettysburg and some much needed fresh air.

There is something interesting about the violence that took place on this site, for it represents the high water mark of the Confederate advance north, and the beginning of the end of the American Civil war. Now, each battalion that fought on both sides is tastefully commemorated on this wide rolling and perfectly maintained memorial park on which most people drive between countless plaques and statues. Confused by everyone else’s laziness, we decided to walk.

Judging from the maintained segregation in this monument, and the merchandise available in the countless souvenir shops in the pretty adjoining town, people appeared to flock here for two main reasons; to either celebrate or commiserate what has past. You see for some (indeed for most), Gettysburg is a place of triumph where Lincoln addressed a solidifying union. However, for others it is a sad place, heavy with lost opportunity, where the reluctant end to an alternative vision of America first had to be comprehended.

For me, if there is one place that represents the division in modern America, it is here.




That night we made a push for the home of the Fresh Prince, and the Liberty Bell... Philadelphia, where under the cover of darkness we explored the last city that we would see prior to our arrival on the east coast and the end to the first chapter of our journey.

Philadelphia

© All Images By Paul