Lake Tahoe

This was our first real opportunity to head inland and away from the long Pacific coastline. So with the Beast temporarily converted back to its primary function of vehicle rather then mobile home, we headed east along Highway 80 towards the alpine beauty of Lake Tahoe. Located in the Sierra Nevada mountains, Tahoe is undeniably picturesque. I had visited this area once before within the dead of winter, when the mountain sides shone a brilliant white under many feet of snow (picture from previoius trip). However this time, under a strong Indian summer, a rich pallet of colours had emerged to greet us. As I looked out over the mirror like lake I couldn't help but think that my eyes were deceiving me as the rich green of a thick woodland was sandwiched between the deep blues of the sky and water. The view looked like a doctored photograph; a complete contrast to the muted tones and diffused light of home, which over many years have dulled my expectation of nature.

Lake Tahoe

That evening we headed over the peaks that dominate the circumference of Lake Tahoe on the way to Reno and the Nevada state border. This involved pushing the Beast to its limits with rises and dips that dwarfed anything I had driven on previously. We had been advised to follow the small mountain pass that is Route 28, and as soon as we crossed the final peak of that mountain range I realised why. There are few words in my limited vocabulary that are capable of describing the view down into Nevada with any justice. All I can say is this is by far the longest and most impressive uninterrupted vista I have ever seen.

Following that treacherous road east and down towards Reno immediately sobered any emotional reaction I was having towards the local environment. This road was going to take its toll unless I dedicated every ounce of concentration in my small brain. However concentrate I did and eventually, under a rapidly descending blanket of darkness, we entered Reno.

The Sky Over The Nevada Border

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Oregon Countryside & Back To California

With only 3 days remaining before a prior engagement back in Marin we needed to make the most of our time left in Oregon. So with fond memories of the Rogue River in our minds we returned to the coast and headed north toward Battle Rock and Bandon.

At first glance, the modest Battle Rock stands as one of many small rocky islands that pepper the Oregon coastline. However, there is a historical significance to this place that provides insight into the recent history of the (US) pacific coastline.

Story Time...

In 1850, US Congress passed the Oregon Donations Land Act, which basically allowed white settlers to claim lands already populated by the Dene Tsut Dah (Native Americans), without any formal negotiation or treaty. Understandably, this Act constructed a recipe for conflict, and in 1851 that conflict arrived when nine men under the command of Captain William Tichenor landed at what is now Battle Rock. For 2 weeks the bravery and gun powder possessed by these nine white settlers repelled an understably irate collection of poorly armed Indian warriors. Eventually, after escaping under the cover of night, Captain William Tichenor and his men returned to this site with a fully equipped army to sweep away any resistance, establish a permanent white settlement and change the course of local history for ever.

Battle Rock

Oregon Coastline

After Battle Rock our journey then took us back towards Highway 5, inland through the open green fields that dominate this beautifully under developed state. We then continued south, eager to put some miles on the clock and reduce the distance between us and Novato. Just shy of the border we rested up in a bland cheap motel in Medford, a sprawl of a former railroad town where we could find little to do other then eat a very large pizza in one of the string of out of town restaurants that appear to define the gastronomic possibilities on offer in this part of the world. The next day we continuing south past the immense Mount Shasta on the way to a comfortable campsite on the banks of Lake Solano. Here, in beautiful and natural surroundings we endeavoured to cook and eat, despite the persistent efforts of a half dozen crazed peacocks who were eager to steal our food.

Mount Shasta

Lake Solano

Crazed Peacock

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Ferndale and Trinidad

After leaving Mendocino we followed Highway 1 north. This took us along a thinly carved road that ran around and over every contour of a mountainous forest. With my teeth gritted and the whites of my knuckles exposed, I followed that path of tarmac as quickly as I could. Eventually, after the constant dipping and swerving had taken its toll on Rebecca, we emerged at Leggett and the first traditional motorists tourist trap of our trip.

Standing at 315 feet, The Chandelier Tree has been attracting faint and weary tourists since the 1930's due to the 6 by 6 foot hole that has been cut through its base to needlessly facilitate the passage of motor vehicles. Whilst I am not a fan of the vandalism that this attraction represents, I was attracted by its historic appeal; so we paid our $8 and drove through this magnificent redwood en route to the pleasant park that lay beyond it.

The Chandelier Tree

Our next stop was Ferndale, a recommended detour off Highway 101 north of the impressive 'Valley of Giants' stretch of that long and impressive road. Like a scene from an eerie 1950's television show, this place was both pretty and breathtakingly odd. Empty streets dominated and personal possessions were left out in the evening sunshine in anticipation of the towns annual yard sale that was due to take place the following day.

Ferndale

The next morning we tried to pay for our camping but failed as the only attendant assigned to the campsite was nowhere to be seen, and had been nowhere to be seen since we arrived the night before. Therefore with an extra $10 in our pocket we headed north toward Trinidad, a small town hugging the ocean, which appears to have been neglected by many of the guide books that we have read to date. We both immediately liked this place and its small community vibe. This isn't a town trying to be anything other then is, which is a friendly community overlooking the most beautiful beach either of us had seen so far.

Trinidad Beach

A Dead Shark

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Nudity Under A Naked Sky

So with excitement coursing through my veins, we finally left camp Novato and Rebecca's Mothers' immensely appreciated hospitality (thank you Kristin).

Our first stop after a short trip up Highway 101, was deep in Hendy Woods State Park, or more specifically at a small and remote resort called Orr Hot Springs. This visit was the result of Miss Rebecca's enthusiastic endorsement of the affect that the minerals contained within the local spring water could and would have on our bodies. I was skeptical about this, but eager as I was to spend our first night in the beast 'car camping' (official term... apparently), I gladly agreed to give the mystical local water and the above mentioned resort a go.

The resort comprised of an intimate collection of wooden huts each equipped to provide its inhabitants with varying levels of comfort (depending upon how much they pay). As we were sleeping in our car we immediately headed past these and went straight to Orr's moderately sized bath house. Once inside, the 'clothing optional' resort policy was immediately translated for us by the presence of a healthy number of middle aged woman, each blissfully in the nude. It was soon very obvious that there was no choice but to do this as god intended, so with a deep breath we both disrobed. Miss Rebecca, like the brave Californian that she is, headed straight to the public baths. I, being the predictable English prude that I am, did not.

Eventually, after a short and very relaxing soak in a private bath, I decided to take one for queen and country. So with my towel thrown boldly over my shoulder, I marched into the public bathing area to join Rebecca.

That night, after an awful meal of tinned soup and soggy pre-packaged bagel, we returned to the bath house to relax under a sky that contained more stars then I have ever seen. I'm not sure about the minerals; but laying in a warm pool in the middle of a forest staring up at the majesty of the nights sky certainly does something positive for your soul.

Our Orr Springs 'Car Camping' Spot

The next morning, after a disorientating but ultimately successful first night sleeping in the beast we drove west to Highway 1 and Mendocino. This undoubtedly pretty (self described) artist colony and museum town was the perfect place to eat breakfast and watch the morning mist evaporate into the sky.

Mendocino

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Point Reyes National Seashore

With the top down, we headed west in the back of a silver sports car. The wind whistled as it whipped through our hair and through the intense afternoon sun. Soon the temperature dropped from hot to pleasant as we approached Inverness and the Point Reyes National Seashore. With little around us other then small scale cattle farms and exposed moorland we continued towards the imposing and endless cliff tops that stretched deep into the horizon.

Eventually, we arrived at The Point Reyes Lighthouse (built 1870) which sits, battered and exposed overlooking the Gulf of the Farallones. Unfortunately, it was 'Labor Day' so the crowds had also descended. However, even they could not dampen our enthusiasm for the view, which stretched out in every direction. To sea, Grey Whales could be seen spouting seawater into the sky. Inland, and after very many steps down to the shore-line, the large sharp coastal rocks could be seen standing solidly against the ocean.





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Bolinas & Bass Lake

The good news is that we have found a vehicle. The bad news is that it is taking longer then anticipated to fix it up ready for our trip. Still, we have been lucky enough to find a deal that is too good to miss, so we will wait another week before leaving California. In the mean time we have had an opportunity to explore some more of the scenic gems which are available around the bay area.

With this in mind, we headed to probably my favourite spot on the Marin County coastline with Michael and Tom.

Bolinas is a remote coastal community that is known for its peaceful, artistic and reclusive inhabitants. Historically, it has only been accessible via unmarked roads; as any sign erected along the nearby Highway One has been torn down by local residents eager not to dilute the character of their community with bland and unwanted tourism. Despite this, once you are there, the locals are friendly and welcoming in each of the small number of local businesses. There is a perfect little bar, two grocery shops, a couple of Hotels and possibly the cleanest beach in Northern California. It's most famous current inhabitant is a personal hero of mine, Joel Coen. I can see why he has settled here. Peaceful picturesque streets hug a beautiful coastline frequented by surfers and seals. What is not to like about this little pocket of paradise?

View From Bolinas

After picking up a few supplies from Bolinas and taking a few photographs of the immediate coast line, we drove a couple of miles north to some of the high cliffs that stand firm against the vast Pacific Ocean. Then, with rucksacks packed we hiked through the morning mist along the coast and into a dense forest that was dotted with pristine fresh water lakes. Eventually, we emerged at an isolated little cove, where a stream appeared and fell onto an exposed sandy beach. After a spot of lunch, the sun burnt through the thick low-lying mist and we headed back into the forest in search of the clean but opaque waters of Bass Lake. What a perfect place. Tall and lush green trees hugged this wide lake, and inviting rope-swings encouraged us to strip down to our bathing suits and dive in.

Marin Coast & Mist

Hiking To Alamere Falls

Lunch On The Beach

Bass Lake

Rope Swing

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End Of An Era

After a whistle stop tour of Northern California, some serious tanning and the consumption of more food then should be possible; it is now time for Ads to return home to Blighty. I know that I am not just speaking for myself when I say that he will be missed and that he should return to join us as soon as possible.

Here are three shots from his last 24 hours...

Marin County (just west of Novato)

Sutro Baths

Golden Gate Bridge from the Headlands

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Stinson Beach

2.5 miles southeast of the wonderful Bolinas, and sat on the winding and beautiful road that is Highway 1, lies Stinson Beach. This former tent settlement is now an established destination for day-trippers and surfers from San Francisco and Marin County who come to enjoy its long stretch of golden sand and near perfect surf. For most of the year this is a cold and foggy Californian coastal town, however for us today the sun was shining and the beach was untypically popular.

After an excellent lunch at the local 'Sand Dollar Restaurant' and a very short walk, we sat on the beach and exposed our pale English torsos to a poor unprepared Californian public before relaxing on the sand under a near empty blue sky.




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Redwoods

12 miles north of San Francisco sit the very easily accessible Muir Woods. This is not so much a hiking opportunity but rather an excuse to get up close to possibly the most beautiful natural phenomenon on the West Coast of the United States; the Sequoia Sempervirens, or Redwoods.

Unfortunately, due to the short-sighted impact that human industry has inflicted on its natural environment, the once estimated 2 million acres of Redwood forests have been decimated. However, in little pockets of perfect and genuinely awesome beauty, sit protected clusters of these ancient trees, as monuments to what once was.

To an Englishman, these immense trees hold a particular hypnotic power. They are huge. They dwarf anything native to the British Isles and by doing so they leave my lower jaw hanging in recognition. As I look up into their thick canopy, I can barely see the intense sun as it attempts to penetrate. To say that I am impressed by these large, powerful plants would be an understatement.






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Golfing

So out of an embarrassing round in California in 2008 came a fascination with that most middle-aged of obsessions; golf. Now it was time to see if my skills had improved...

... bugger! It appears that 2 years of pitch-and-putt in and around London has done little to improve my swing. Thankfully, Mr Graham suffered equally when confronted with the intimidating fairways of this lush and pristine members club. Still, a very embarrassing English performance in front of our very professional and particularly serious American cousins.

Rebecca & Ads

Rebecca

Ads

Ads & Cart

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San Francisco

Day 1! This is very exciting. Day 1 is all about dealing with jet-lag and doing all of the things in and around the bay area that we know and enjoy.

This basically involved a tip to Haight-Ashbury for noodles, and a walk around the Palace of Fine Arts and the Marina with Davo & Kim.

Haight-Ashbury

Rebecca, Kim and The Bay

Davo

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California 2008 - Background

This time I managed to negotiate a whole month off work. Miss Rebecca decided that we needed to look at some really stupidly large trees in Pfeiffer National Park. So with that in mind we packed up a hired car, loaded film into an old Rangefinder and headed south. This was an inspired recommendation that saw us tucked up in a small wooden cabin cooking stew in a coffee percolator (who would have thought that that was possible).

After several days trekking country paths that hugged the pacific, we headed north through San Francisco and up towards the genuinely awesome landscapes of Tahoe and Squaw Valley.






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California 2006 - Background

Now wet, my appetite sought something more, something that could only be satisfied by the long open road. Without a driving license this was undeniably difficult, so the responsibility for progress fell square on Miss Rebecca's shoulders.

San Francisco - Big Sur - Los Angeles - San Francisco









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