Virginia

‘Only in America’. This phrase has been on my mind since I last used it. Why? Well, upon reflection it really has to be one of the biggest clichés that exist.

I guess that it is a reference to how both Americans and the rest of the world view the exuberant fringes of US society. But to be honest I’m not too sure. From what I have seen, read and heard over the last 6 weeks all I can really say is that here at least, it looks like it is used by some to illustrate a sense of American exceptionalism and superiority. Which is ironic, as the very same phrase back home is used by an equal number of moronic individuals to mock and criticise. It’s a strange situation, and one that to reasonable people everywhere, is completely ludicrous. You see the truth is that America really does not have a monopoly on either superiority or bizarre cultural activity. It just happens to be the focus of more media attention due to its current cultural and economic prominence.

Fundamentally, America like so much of England, Europe and the rest of the World is not unique. The reality is that people in most countries are more similar then any of us care to admit. It’s just that as we all search clumsily for a sense of identity, many of us will hold the country of our birth aloft as being more sane and functional then anywhere else, for the single reason that this is what we know and understand. As far as I'm concerned, the fact that this happens everywhere is an example of how similar humans really are. You see when it comes down to it; we’re all looking for the same things... happiness, love, freedom, prosperity, wisdom etc. But due to geography, spirituality or specific democratic failings, we go about our activities and celebrate ourselves in many different ways. I guess that if there is one thought that sticks in my mind each day as I am repeatedly exposed to new communities across this country, this is it.

Anyway…

Like cheese rolling back home, tomatoe throwing in Spain, or family moped riding in Malaysia, today I saw a cultural activity specific to the emerging culture of a single country.

We left our comfortable hotel in Washington DC and headed south into Virginia toward Fredericksburg, the historical home of George Washington's family. This was another civil war site, and the location of a tidy well preserved small town that has obviously worked hard to maintain its heritage.

The day of our arrival was by coincidence the same day that locals dress their pets up in costumes for Halloween, and do what I could only describe as ‘Pet Trick or Treating’. This may actually happen elsewhere, but if it does I have never seen it. You have probably guessed what this is all about, however I will still describe it for you because it still confuses me to think about it. Basically, animals are dressed up in human-like costumes, and (you guessed it) they are walked between various houses and businesses whose owners bestow them with all kinds of treats and gifts.

I have to be honest about this and say that (to me at least) these animals looked miserable and uncomfortable through all of this. They seemed only to tolerate their handler’s enthusiasm due to the handfuls of food that were regularly being placed in their mouths. They were being treated like human children rather then the creatures that they are, and this just made me feel sorry for them. Indeed to my dismay, some were even being placed in prams and wheeled around by owners who beamed like proud new parents. This event really wasn't for me.

So, after about an hour I decided to leave Rebecca to document each and every dog, cat and human that was participating, and walk around the attractive streets of this pleasant town to take some photographs. Eventually, I returned to the Beast to listen to Mark Kermode's weekly podcast in bid to restore some much needed sanity to my brain (hello Jason Isaacs), before being joined by Rebecca and her full memory card.

It was time to progress south east toward the navel port of Norfolk, where we would once again meet the coast that would carry us down toward the southern tip of Florida.





© All Images By Paul

District of Columbia

As the days’ relentless rainfall finally abated, and after a rich golden sun set slowly on Baltimore’s attractive inner city, we decided to make our move. As the traffic upon entry to this modest metropolis had been so hectic, we hoped that the cover of darkness may provide a more frictionless passage to Washington DC. Thankfully, this proved to be a wise decision.

To be honest, I was sorry to leave Baltimore. It had provided what so many criticise American cities of lacking, a genuinely unique architectural aesthetic. This was a surprise, as so many people had told me to expect the opposite. However, I can now say with complete confidence, that not all American cities are the same at all, and anyone who says otherwise is simply wrong.

When we arrived in DC, we did so with a strategy. From a hazy decade old memory that has lingered long in the empty hole that is my mind, I recalled that the metro system provides a reliable and well functioning method of navigating between the various monuments and tourist attractions. So we checked into a comfortable motel in Cheverly, a nearby suburb from which we could get easy access.

DC Metro Station

Cheverly proved to be the perfect launch pad from which we could explore Washington DC’s (thankfully) pedestrian friendly central core. From here we could travel to and walk around the many miles of paths and walkways that link the various elements of Pierre Charles L’Enfant’s original design for this planned capital.

Despite two sore legs and an equal number of aching feet, I was glad not to be dependent upon a vehicle for the first time in weeks. It reminded me how constricted life can be when forced to use a car for every journey, and it brought home thoughts of the old world back home in Europe, where walking is a more prominent feature of everyday life.

All around us tall columns imposed a classic almost phallic interpretation of masculine architecture that could have been lifted straight out of ancient Rome. This is obviously a capital that was designed to intimidate foreign heads of state using tried and tested symbols of power. It’s not original, but its architectural posturing is definitely impressive.




That night we ventured into Georgetown, the friendly and bustling social centre for many who live in this city. This place provided the beating heart that was lacking in the more functional and imposing central districts. Here immaculately maintained Georgian inspired brick buildings provide temporary shelter for late night shoppers and inebriated but well-behaved revelers. This was more like it. It felt human and alive, like a well behaved version of Dublin on a Saturday night.

Georgetown Sunset

After a few days meandering between the various monuments and museums it was time to do what any visit to Washington DC really requires. It was time to attend a political rally. Thankfully, during our stay the more rational voices of America were congregating in front of Capitol Hill for Jon Stewart and Stephen Colbert's rally to restore Sanity and/or Fear.


Some opinion (please feel free to ignore this)…

It appears that the political discourse in America has polarised in recent years and tribal tension between both camps in its strict 2 party system is at an all time high. This is partly due to the recent emergence of the Republican right in the form of the Tea Party, but it is also due to Democratic Parties’ reaction to this change to the political landscape.

In Britain, our problem is that both main political parties have moved toward the centre ground in search of votes and in doing so they have left little room for an increasingly bewildered electorate to make choices at election time (hence our hung parliament). In America, things are quite different. Here instead of chasing votes to the centre, political parties have actually shifted the very location of the national debate. Let me explain…

The political right has in recent decades shifted further to the right and the left has shifted into what was considered to be the centre ground. As a result when the two parties now reach out and agree with each other in order to facilitate change, the only policy they can agree on is policy that anywhere else in the world would be considered to be marginally right wing. As a result the right is the real location of modern American debate, and this is the real reason why a proper debate of more leftist issues (health reform, public sector investment etc) generate such violent and negative rhetoric.

Jon Stewarts attempt to bring reasonable balanced debate back to America is to be applauded and his central belief that most people are reasonable, and that most people can cope with differences of opinion is completely right, not just in America, but all over the world. Media bosses and political leaders need to just give them a chance.

Aggressive tribal politics is dangerous in any country, it decreases the quality of debate and as a result, it prevents the electorate from being able to form reasonable conclusions based on the balance of political argument. This in turn enables political parties and media outlets to dictate where on the political scale the national debate takes place, because leaders know they can rely on the backing of tribal supporters for whom their support is a defining characteristic.


On a lighter note, this rally also enabled me to see Ozzy Osbourne and Cat Stevens (two Englishman) perform on same stage in front of the central houses of national democracy.

Only in America

© All Images By Paul