Nudity Under A Naked Sky

So with excitement coursing through my veins, we finally left camp Novato and Rebecca's Mothers' immensely appreciated hospitality (thank you Kristin).

Our first stop after a short trip up Highway 101, was deep in Hendy Woods State Park, or more specifically at a small and remote resort called Orr Hot Springs. This visit was the result of Miss Rebecca's enthusiastic endorsement of the affect that the minerals contained within the local spring water could and would have on our bodies. I was skeptical about this, but eager as I was to spend our first night in the beast 'car camping' (official term... apparently), I gladly agreed to give the mystical local water and the above mentioned resort a go.

The resort comprised of an intimate collection of wooden huts each equipped to provide its inhabitants with varying levels of comfort (depending upon how much they pay). As we were sleeping in our car we immediately headed past these and went straight to Orr's moderately sized bath house. Once inside, the 'clothing optional' resort policy was immediately translated for us by the presence of a healthy number of middle aged woman, each blissfully in the nude. It was soon very obvious that there was no choice but to do this as god intended, so with a deep breath we both disrobed. Miss Rebecca, like the brave Californian that she is, headed straight to the public baths. I, being the predictable English prude that I am, did not.

Eventually, after a short and very relaxing soak in a private bath, I decided to take one for queen and country. So with my towel thrown boldly over my shoulder, I marched into the public bathing area to join Rebecca.

That night, after an awful meal of tinned soup and soggy pre-packaged bagel, we returned to the bath house to relax under a sky that contained more stars then I have ever seen. I'm not sure about the minerals; but laying in a warm pool in the middle of a forest staring up at the majesty of the nights sky certainly does something positive for your soul.

Our Orr Springs 'Car Camping' Spot

The next morning, after a disorientating but ultimately successful first night sleeping in the beast we drove west to Highway 1 and Mendocino. This undoubtedly pretty (self described) artist colony and museum town was the perfect place to eat breakfast and watch the morning mist evaporate into the sky.

Mendocino

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Point Reyes National Seashore

With the top down, we headed west in the back of a silver sports car. The wind whistled as it whipped through our hair and through the intense afternoon sun. Soon the temperature dropped from hot to pleasant as we approached Inverness and the Point Reyes National Seashore. With little around us other then small scale cattle farms and exposed moorland we continued towards the imposing and endless cliff tops that stretched deep into the horizon.

Eventually, we arrived at The Point Reyes Lighthouse (built 1870) which sits, battered and exposed overlooking the Gulf of the Farallones. Unfortunately, it was 'Labor Day' so the crowds had also descended. However, even they could not dampen our enthusiasm for the view, which stretched out in every direction. To sea, Grey Whales could be seen spouting seawater into the sky. Inland, and after very many steps down to the shore-line, the large sharp coastal rocks could be seen standing solidly against the ocean.





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The Beast

It appears that the Debster has played a blinder. Courtesy of an immensely kind friend she has managed to find us a vehicle that has exceeded our expectations and more then satisfied our needs. We will now be touring the US with a degree of previously unexpected luxury in a particularly comfortable piece of South Korean engineering. We are hugely grateful to all who helped to make this purchase happen and we are now even more excited about the long and winding roads that lay before us.
With a vehicle purchased and delivered, our next priority was to construct a bed. With a design firmly in mind, this was something that proved even more simple to construct then we had envisaged. With the kind and able help of Miss Rebecca's dad Bill, and the enthusiastic and entertaining support of his welcome Vietnamese neighbour, we managed to construct our sleeping platform and storage space in a single sun scorched and sweaty afternoon.

Next step after this 'labor day' bank holiday, is to purchase a foam mattress from the local foam shop (who would have thought that existed). We will then be ready to roll; DMV and and insurance permitting.

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Bolinas & Bass Lake

The good news is that we have found a vehicle. The bad news is that it is taking longer then anticipated to fix it up ready for our trip. Still, we have been lucky enough to find a deal that is too good to miss, so we will wait another week before leaving California. In the mean time we have had an opportunity to explore some more of the scenic gems which are available around the bay area.

With this in mind, we headed to probably my favourite spot on the Marin County coastline with Michael and Tom.

Bolinas is a remote coastal community that is known for its peaceful, artistic and reclusive inhabitants. Historically, it has only been accessible via unmarked roads; as any sign erected along the nearby Highway One has been torn down by local residents eager not to dilute the character of their community with bland and unwanted tourism. Despite this, once you are there, the locals are friendly and welcoming in each of the small number of local businesses. There is a perfect little bar, two grocery shops, a couple of Hotels and possibly the cleanest beach in Northern California. It's most famous current inhabitant is a personal hero of mine, Joel Coen. I can see why he has settled here. Peaceful picturesque streets hug a beautiful coastline frequented by surfers and seals. What is not to like about this little pocket of paradise?

View From Bolinas

After picking up a few supplies from Bolinas and taking a few photographs of the immediate coast line, we drove a couple of miles north to some of the high cliffs that stand firm against the vast Pacific Ocean. Then, with rucksacks packed we hiked through the morning mist along the coast and into a dense forest that was dotted with pristine fresh water lakes. Eventually, we emerged at an isolated little cove, where a stream appeared and fell onto an exposed sandy beach. After a spot of lunch, the sun burnt through the thick low-lying mist and we headed back into the forest in search of the clean but opaque waters of Bass Lake. What a perfect place. Tall and lush green trees hugged this wide lake, and inviting rope-swings encouraged us to strip down to our bathing suits and dive in.

Marin Coast & Mist

Hiking To Alamere Falls

Lunch On The Beach

Bass Lake

Rope Swing

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End Of An Era

After a whistle stop tour of Northern California, some serious tanning and the consumption of more food then should be possible; it is now time for Ads to return home to Blighty. I know that I am not just speaking for myself when I say that he will be missed and that he should return to join us as soon as possible.

Here are three shots from his last 24 hours...

Marin County (just west of Novato)

Sutro Baths

Golden Gate Bridge from the Headlands

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Stinson Beach

2.5 miles southeast of the wonderful Bolinas, and sat on the winding and beautiful road that is Highway 1, lies Stinson Beach. This former tent settlement is now an established destination for day-trippers and surfers from San Francisco and Marin County who come to enjoy its long stretch of golden sand and near perfect surf. For most of the year this is a cold and foggy Californian coastal town, however for us today the sun was shining and the beach was untypically popular.

After an excellent lunch at the local 'Sand Dollar Restaurant' and a very short walk, we sat on the beach and exposed our pale English torsos to a poor unprepared Californian public before relaxing on the sand under a near empty blue sky.




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Redwoods

12 miles north of San Francisco sit the very easily accessible Muir Woods. This is not so much a hiking opportunity but rather an excuse to get up close to possibly the most beautiful natural phenomenon on the West Coast of the United States; the Sequoia Sempervirens, or Redwoods.

Unfortunately, due to the short-sighted impact that human industry has inflicted on its natural environment, the once estimated 2 million acres of Redwood forests have been decimated. However, in little pockets of perfect and genuinely awesome beauty, sit protected clusters of these ancient trees, as monuments to what once was.

To an Englishman, these immense trees hold a particular hypnotic power. They are huge. They dwarf anything native to the British Isles and by doing so they leave my lower jaw hanging in recognition. As I look up into their thick canopy, I can barely see the intense sun as it attempts to penetrate. To say that I am impressed by these large, powerful plants would be an understatement.






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Golfing

So out of an embarrassing round in California in 2008 came a fascination with that most middle-aged of obsessions; golf. Now it was time to see if my skills had improved...

... bugger! It appears that 2 years of pitch-and-putt in and around London has done little to improve my swing. Thankfully, Mr Graham suffered equally when confronted with the intimidating fairways of this lush and pristine members club. Still, a very embarrassing English performance in front of our very professional and particularly serious American cousins.

Rebecca & Ads

Rebecca

Ads

Ads & Cart

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San Francisco

Day 1! This is very exciting. Day 1 is all about dealing with jet-lag and doing all of the things in and around the bay area that we know and enjoy.

This basically involved a tip to Haight-Ashbury for noodles, and a walk around the Palace of Fine Arts and the Marina with Davo & Kim.

Haight-Ashbury

Rebecca, Kim and The Bay

Davo

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... And We're Off!

So it is with a sad but excited heart that I say good bye to London. But after 8 years, 6 apartments and 2 long and hard jobs, it is certainly time for us to part company. At least for a while. It is easy to say that most of my favourite people live in this vast and intense city. It is going to be less easy not to be able to see any of you whilst I am away.

Just before I go, and now that what was our perfect apartment has been cleared, I just want to say a massive thank you to all the people that helped us pack everything up. You know who you are and so do I. Honestly, I really do appreciate it and it won't be forgotten. You have made a massive and difficult task far easier to deal with.

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